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Frequently Asked Questions
THD Ascorbate is an ester of Vitamin C that permeates the skin and is converted to ascorbic acid in the skin by esterase. This theory is supported by several tests including using a 3D skin model to perform an evaluation of a formulation containing 10% THD Ascorbate.
The stratum corneum of the 3D skin model was treated for a 48 hour period and a HPLC analysis was then performed. The results show that the formulation containing THD Ascorbate penetrated and was converted to ascorbic acid in the 3D skin model.
(Ochiai Y, Kaburagi S, Obayashi K, et al. A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative properties. J Dermatol Sci. 2006;44(1):37-44.)
Another test shows that THD Ascorbate permeates the hydrophobic plasma membrane and is converted to ascorbic acid in NHDF fibroblasts. The test was conducted in parallel with ascorbic acid and THD Ascorbate enhanced intracellular ascorbic acid levels more so than ascorbic acid itself. It is assumed that the accumulation of ascorbic acid occurred through esterolytic conversion of the THD Ascorbate.
(Xiao L, Kaneyasu K, Saitoh Y, Terashima Y, Kowata Y, Miwa N. Cytoprotective effects of the lipoidic-liquiform pro-vitamin C tetra-isopalmitoyl-ascorbate (VC-IP) against ultraviolet-A ray-induced injuries in human skin cells together with collagen retention, MMP inhibition and p53 gene repression. J Cell Biochem. 2009;106(4):589-98.)
Moisturisers tend to be creamier and more viscous, therefore Revision Skincare® recommend applying moisturisers after their lighter antioxidant-based products or serums. Revision Skincare® suggest that if you are only using their products, you can mix the products together into a “cocktail” and apply simultaneously in one application.
This is very dependent on the antioxidant product. Most antioxidant products contain L-Ascorbic Acid which tend to have an extremely low pH.
Revision Skincare® advises patients to wait 10-15 minutes before applying other products. One of the reasons that the scientists at Revision Skincare® decided to use Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) was because THD Ascorbate has been shown to boost intracellular levels of L-Ascorbic Acid and does not present pH issues as described above.
Yes, sunscreens should always be placed last on the skin as this will allow for the most optimal protection from UV radiation (HEV/IR). The goal of a sunscreen is to remain on the top layer of the skin which allows for optimal absorption of UV radiation and this is the case whether it is a chemical or physical sunscreen.
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